Kermis

Kermesse, or kermis, or kirmess, is a Dutch language term derived from 'kerk' (church) and 'mis' (mass) that became incorporated in French and English. Its origins are originally associated with the mass said on the anniversary of the founding of a church (or the parish) and in honor of the Patron Saint.  Such religious celebrations were regularly held in the Low Countries, in Central Europe and also in Northern France, and were accompanied by feasting, dancing, drinking and sports. 

The Dutch-American Village of Little Chute, Wisconsin, has celebrated Kermis annually since 1981 with a street festival. The Wallonian settlements in Door and Kewaunee Counties have celebrated Kermis with traditional Belgian dishes and events for as long as anyone can remember.  

Traditionally, Kermis around here stretched over several calendar weeks as each small settlement - Namur, Brussels, Rosiere, Little Sturgeon, Forestville, Lincoln, Duvall and Casco celebrated the harvest and the life-giving bounty of food.  

I'm not of Dutch or Belgian descent - but we're celebrating our own Kermis here with With the last of our garden harvest and attending the annual Kermis festival at the local Belgian American Heritage Center in Namur.  Nothing better on a late summer afternoon than friends, neighbors, a couple of Trappist-influenced craft beers and some Belgian Church Lady food. 

Beginning in the mid-1800s and over three decades more than 5000 Belgian immigrants settled in several communities in the area.  To this day it constitutes the largest concentration of Walloon Belgians anywhere in the world outside of Belgium.  It's a national treasure.  But I digress.

Getting back to the subject of culinary traditions I happened-upon this short video published only a few years ago.  I'm sharing it as it is about the tradition of hog butchering in both English and Walloon.  Walloon is a national treasure around these parts as it's actually an endangered 'Romance Language' of the Langues d'oïl family - spoken primarily in the Wallonia region of Belgium.   

One of the elements of the past that is alive and well is a local favorite called Belgian Trippe.

Trippe (pronounced like: trip) is a sausage similar to a bratwurst but with a not-so-secret ingredient.  The thrifty Belgian settlers extended their pork sausage with the inclusion of cabbage.  Further seasoned with onion, salt, pepper, thyme, nutmeg and ginger it is made locally by Marchant's.

It's pretty good stuff for breakfast, lunch or dinner and you won't find it anywhere outside of northeast Wisconsin.

Here's a newspaper clipping from 1963 with a recipe for 60+ pounds of the sausage for serving at a Kermis - or Belgian harvest festival....

click on image for a closer look

The Garden Chronicles

As tough as gardening has been this year there have been several standouts.  Raspberries, asparagus and tomatoes.  Plenty of berries to pick and eat with the surplus frozen for the future.  You've likely been bored to tears with the spargel story.  And the tomatoes are doing terrific with red and yellow cherry varieties for snacking, San Marzanos for pizza and these beauties; all acquired from Sully's Greenhouse this spring.  

First time purchaser from this garden center and I guess I'll have to go back; namely because the heirloom beefsteak variety above can no longer be ID'd.  The name on the tag faded!  These are absolutely fantastic.

Anyway, my tomato plants are about half of prior years but the yield is good enough for some canning in my future.

Meanwhile there are BLTs to eat.

 Pretty good chow if you can get it.... 

You Are What You Eat

I recently made a run to Miesfeld's in Sheboygan to fetch the last batch of venison from the 2024 deer season.  It took a while for everything to be processed; yet it's completed. 

Garlic summer sausage, snack sticks, wieners and bacon.  Yes, there is such a thing as deer bacon.  

I had previously taken an additional batch of venison to Marchant's Meats in Sturgeon Bay to have brats and regular summer made.  Much faster turn-around.  And by the time you read this all but the shares belonging to a couple of hunters will have been distributed and likely found its way to a summer grilling session. 

In case you're wondering about the economics it works out like this:

Four deer skinned, cut and wrapped was $520; split six ways is $87 a hunter.  Everyone received a generous helping of steaks, chops and burger.  On top of that there was another generous selection of brats, wieners, snack sticks, summer sausage and bacon.  $560 total ($381 Miesfeld's and $179 Marchant's) split six ways is $93 a hunter.  All-in that comes to $180 a hunter.  And if you've been paying attention to the price of meat lately this is a decent deal; considering the overall yield.  (Note to self - take photos next time). 

I take payment by check or Zelle®.

Fun Fact:  Three additional deer were donated to the food pantry network of northeast Wisconsin thru DNR's deer donation program. 

Tour de Ferme

Only a few minutes from where I live is Brey Cycle Farm, LLC.  Recently I had an opportunity to pay a visit and receive a tour of the dairy operation.

Cycle Farm takes its name from the cycle of sustainability which is central to what they do.  All of their beef and dairy animals are born and raised on the farm here in Door County.  

Cycle Farm was established in 1904 by George Brey Sr., great-grandfather of Tony and Jacob  who purchased the farm from their parents Bill and Clarice Brey in 2016.  Today about 1,500 cows are milked and calves and heifers are raised.  Cycle Farm also raises Angus/Holstein crossbred beef animals along with custom heifers for other farms.  As stewards of the land high quality forage crops are grown on 2,000 acres of owned and rented land for livestock feed.  In addition to family members there are an additional twenty full-time employees and several part-time employees.

Cycle Farm is a  member of Peninsula Pride Farms, a farmer-led conservation group, and are participants in the Door-Kewaunee Demonstration Farms Network. 

Calves are fed mother's colostrum at birth to provide immunity and nutrition.  Housed in individual hutches for individual attention and health they are fed pasteurized milk twice a day along with fresh water.  After a week a grain mix is introduced to supplement the milk.  Calves are weaned after 60 days and moved to a group pen.  Feed is a total mixed ration (TMR) of forage, grains, minerals, vitamins, minerals and protein for balanced nutrition.

Maternity ward

Couple of hours old

Cows like moderate temperatures so they are housed in in freestall barns keeping them shaded and cool in the summer and warm in the winter.  This set-up allows the animals to eat, drink, move-about and lie down as they please while protecting them from inclement weather.  Cows are fed a custom TMR and have access to fresh water all the time and their pens are cleaned each time they are in the milking parlor.

TMR Cuisinart

 

Girls returning from milking parlor

Speaking of which, cows are creatures of habit consequently they are milked three times at the  same time each day.  The parlor can handle 26 cows at a time and machines keep track of pounds, temperature and quality with each animal producing an average of 10 gallons of milk daily.  Milk is shipped to Agropur in Luxemburg, WI for the production of mozzarella and provolone.

 

Bulk milk storage

Acreage is routinely tested for pH, organic matter, phosphorus and potassium.  Manure from the animals is stored in a pit until conditions are appropriate for application by spreading, injection or drag hose.  Testing is GPS managed, collecting 1 sample per 2.5 acres to determine nutrient levels impacted by soil types and previous crops grown.  An agronomist determines application rates depending-upon soil needs.

In 2021 - 140 acres were converted to paddocks for grazing heifers and beef cattle.  Management-intensive grazing is a flexible approach to rotational grazing influenced by paddock size, stocking density and length of grazing.  Adjustments are made throughout the grazing season balancing forage supply with animal demand.

In 2024 a screw-press separator was acquired to recycle manure solids for bedding instead of purchasing sand.  The device removes undigested fiber in the manure from the liquid and through a simple drying process produces green bedding to keep the animals comfortable in their stalls.

You won't find Brey beef sold in a local grocery; you can call or order online for pick-up at their farm store located at 2190 County Road O, Sturgeon Bay.  They offer Bargain Bundle and Freezer Filler packages for a volume discount or you can purchase a package of burgers, wieners, or a steak or roast.  Breyfamilybeef@gmail.com or (920) 639-4742.   You can learn more on Facebook and visit Brey Family Beef. 

French Vosgienne breed - solitary animal

 

 

Long Road To Get Here

Fourteen years ago I published a short observation of Wisconsin's efforts to measure if the Emerald Ash Borer had spread To the Peninsula.  Inevitably, it did and the work of this non-native pest has left its mark.  The landscape is now covered with dead and dying ash trees.

The Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) kills ash trees by feeding on the tree's inner bark, disrupting the flow of essential nutrients and water. The larvae tunnel under the bark, creating "S"-shaped galleries and weakening the tree's ability to transport resources to its leaves and roots. Over time, this damage can lead to canopy thinning, branch dieback, and ultimately, death.

All of our mature ash trees are toast although just as with the elm species considered extirpated three generations ago natural regeneration persists, plenty of ash seedling continue to sprout in the forest understory.  So, maybe there is hope.  We dodged a bullet as the trees we planted decades ago were a mixed bag of native Wisconsin conifers and hardwoods.  Yes, the ash is dead or on life-support depending-upon how you view the situation but most everything else is thriving.  Meanwhile, some of my neighbors have woodlots dominated by ash and it breaks one's heart to drive by it on a regular basis.

Recently we hired a contractor to remove the dead ash from immediately around the house and all the dead trees on our side of the county road that posed a threat of toppling-over, landing in the road thus creating a hazard to vehicular traffic.

A crew of four, mechanized equipment; it took a day and a half.

From around the house, most of the logs were removed, smaller trees and the slash were chipped.  Along a quarter mile of road everything was dragged aside and left in the woods.  I have more firewood now if I'm inclined to cut it, split it and fetch it.   And boy has the view from the porch changed!

 

Southern Door Rocks

Sturgeon Bay Wisconsin is well known as a Great Lakes shipbuilding hub.  It’s also mistakenly known as the gateway to Door County.  But when you’re driving up the peninsula to Door County and you get to the steel bridge in Sturgeon Bay, you made it! You’ve found fish boils, light houses, orchards and tranquil scenery. 

You readers are smart enough to already know that if you've arrived in Sturgeon Bay you've left the VERY CONSIDERABLE entirety of Southern Door County behind you in your rear view mirror.

I live in Southern Door.  Pastoral farmland.  Flyover country.  East to ride a bike from the Lake Michigan coastline ti the coastline of Green Bay.  Anyway, this is a rather nice compilation of stuff worth doing; and you'll find it all about 20 minutes from The Platz.  

If you're in the neighborhood give us a heads-up.  You might just get a guided tour and if you're lucky there might be room at the inn. 

Ever See A Ghost?

Yesterday I was out running errands and stopped at the Havegärd Bird Feed Outlet Store to replenish my dwindling stock of wild bird seed.  If you've never been be sure to check them out.  Likely the best selection and pricing for large quantities of bird feed and supplies on the planet.  East side of highway 42/57 just south of the Sturgeon Bay.  I digress.  

 

Upon entering the store the guy at the register asked if I had something to take a photo.  To which I replied:  You bet.  Got my phone with me.  Gesturing, he said to go outside and checkout what was perched on the utility pole at the side of the road.

click on image for a closer look

Meet Bubo scandiacus.  A snowy owl.  Yowza cool!  It is not unusual to learn of reports of them appearing along the Lake Michigan coastline in the winter months; yet observing one in person is an event worthy of celebration.

This is a big bird tipping the scales at 3.5 to 6.5 pounds.  Standing up to 28 inches in height and with a wingspan of up to 4.8 feet this is the largest owl in North America.  It sports bright white plumage, large yellow eyes and larger feathered talons.  Home territory to this bird is the treeless tundra above the Arctic Circle.  From time-to-time small numbers may migrate to southern Canada and the northern reaches of the contiguous United States.  Larger numbers infrequently show-up in an event called an owl ‘irruption’.  

What is the cause of an irruption?  Possibly fluctuations in food supply.  It is hypothesized that a temporary abundance of lemmings allows the owls to successfully raise large families and then these young owls disperse southward by the hundreds to avoid competition with older birds for winter territories.  Similarly, shortages of prey prompt these birds to move from their normal wintering grounds.

These owls hunt during daylight hours and will roost on almost anything. They like flat open land (it’s what they know), sometimes sitting on the ground, but more often on hay bales, fence posts, telephone posts, rock piles, muskrat houses, tree snags, silos, and other structures.  Snowy Owls will dine upon almost any live thing that moves - voles, mice, lemmings, waterfowl, rabbits, muskrats, weasels, and pigeons. Other bird species are taken as well. They swallow small prey whole.

 

It is notoriously challenging to estimate population numbers for this iconic species.  Nevertheless, recent data suggests that the snowy owl population is much smaller than previously thought and declining.  This bird is now listed as vulnerable to global extinction.

 

Because these birds are not accustomed to seeing humans they likely will appear fearless in your presence.  Approach them with caution and observe them at a distance.  Do not flush them.  The rare sighting of this beautiful bird can be a once in a lifetime experience.  Sorta like seeing a ghost.

 

Learn more about snowy owl sightings near you here.

Recipe Of The Day

Native to the Americas where it was first domesticated - Phaseolus vulgaris - also known as the haricot bean, pea bean, Boston bean or navy bean, this dry white bean has been a staple of sailors serving in the US Navy since the mid-1800s.

We're fans of homemade soup.  And a recent cold snap inspired me to make a batch of one of our standby favorites. 

Navy Bean Soup

Step One - Make your stock.  In a large stock pot slow cook a couple of Marchant's smoked pork hocks for about 5+ hours.

Step Two - At bedtime cover and put the pot in the garage overnight.  In the morning skim the congealed fat  from the surface. Remove the meat from the hocks and set aside.  Discard the fat, skin and bones.

Step Three - Dice a sweet onion and add to the stock.  Sift thru two 16 ounce bags of dried beans looking for any stones or bad beans,  Add to pot.  Cover and simmer on low until the beans are al dente.  Roughly 3-4 hours.

Step Four - Peel and dice some potato and add to the pot.  Cover and continue to simmer 20 - 30 minutes.

Step Five - Add back to the pot all of the reserved meat and a couple of grated carrots.  Salt to taste.

Last Step - Serve with oyster crackers, saltines or a crusty baguette.

 Good chow if you can get it.  And it's even better reheated the next day.

The Garden Chronicles

The tomato avalanche has possibly begun to peter-out.  The nights are incredibly cooler and even the days not so hot any longer.

Nevertheless, we're eating these delectable fruits daily and canning them while I go.

Obtained from the Pioneer Pantry in Brussels This is my first year raising San Marzano tomatoes.  Tasty and plentiful!  I'll do these again.  Maybe even exclusively.

Come February ordinarily normal individual would commit high crimes and misdemeanors for fresh, homegrown tomatoes.

Seven pints of San Marzano sunshine!

Why America Is Already Great

In case you’ve been wondering why you won’t find my FB page to be a vast reservoir of grievances, perceived and real.  It’s because, in general, I think my community is a good place to work, raise a family, retire and whatever.  Here’s another reason. 

When your tractor develops a high pressure hydraulic leak you can go to O’Reilly in Sturgeon Bay and they’ll fabricate a replacement hose while you wait. 

 

And because I had to wait a bit longer (maybe 15 minutes or thereabouts) they voluntarily knocked a bit off the price. $53 down to $39.

 

This, my friends, is the kinda stuff that singularly is why America is already great. 

Hat Tip to my Brussels neighbor, Paul, for the assist and advice.

 

Big Orange Taxi

The Staten Island Ferry, one of the last operating ferry systems in New York, transported people between Manhattan and its surrounding boroughs long before bridges were introduced. Since 1817 to be exact.

1895

Nowadays, the Staten Island Ferry provides almost 22 million people with ferry service annually: taking almost 70,000 passengers daily between St George on Staten Island and Whitehall Street in Manhattan. 

The ferry is the only non-vehicular mode of transport between Staten Island and Manhattan. The New York City Department of Transportation is responsible for the maintenance of the ten-vessel fleet along with numerous facilities including the St George and Whitehall terminals in Staten Island and Manhattan respectively, the City Island and Hart Island facilities, and the Battery Maritime Building including all floating dock equipment.

The Staten Island Ferry is run for one simple reason, to provide transportation for those who need it. However, the Staten Island Ferry offers so much more, including a scenic view of the New York Harbor and a no-hassle way to view the city, for free! 

During the 25-minute ride, the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island are visible from on deck. The skyscrapers and bridges of lower Manhattan are there to see you off as you depart and welcome you back as you return. The weekday schedule of the Staten Island Ferry employs four boats that make a total of 117 trips a day - or about 40,404 trips year-round.

Between rush hours, the boats are refueled and maintained to ensure safe travel for all its passengers, terminals are routinely cleaned and maintained as well during the day shift. Weekends feature a similar schedule, employing three boats and only 96 trips daily compared to the frenzy of activity required during the workweek. In the post-9/11 world, passenger cars are no longer authorized to ride the ferry.

About twenty years ago I happened to be in Sturgeon Bay and was witness to a big, orange Staten Island Ferry cruising east in the direct of the ship canal.  Having completed its sea trials it was heading out for travel thru the seaway for delivery the the New York Department of Transportation.  I cannot recall which one it was but it was constructed and launched here in northeast Wisconsin.

We've been to new York many times of the years for business and travel.  Until this recent trip with the family I have never ridden the ferry.  About time to scratch that itch.

Since 1902, Fincantieri Marine Group has been designing and constructing some of the world's most advanced marine vessels ranging from small passenger ferries to large cargo ferries.  

Return Trip On The Spirit Of America

There are ten ferries in the current fleet and three were born and launched here: Guy V. Molinari, John J.Marchi and Spirit of America.  The keel of the Spirit was built with steel from the Trade Center Towers.  The vessel honors the spirit and unity of America following the attacks and the memory of all who were killed and the Civil Servants who perished trying to save them.

You can learn more here.

photo - Fincantieri Marine Group

 

 

Weight Lifter

Photo - Door County Sail and Power Squadron

 

Meet the Happy River.  She is one of four sister ships: Happy Rover, Happy Ranger and Sailer Jupiter. 

The Happy River is a heavy lift vessel and as a consequence can carry forest products, general cargo, containers, heavy manufactured items and other "mammoth" projects. It was built in 1997 by Merwede of the Netherlands and is operated by Mammoet Shipping. This ship is delivering custom LNG tanks from Spain.  

Photo - Door County Sail and Power Squadron

Fincantieri Bay Shipbuilding is partnering with Crowley Maritime Corporation (Shell) on the largest LNG (liquefied natural gas) bunkering barge ever constructed in the United States. Inasmuch as the shipyard gantry crane hasn't the lift capacity; the Dutch vessel is going to shift these tanks into the barge for installation at Bay Ship in Sturgeon Bay.

 

You can learn more about this project here.

 

Sturgeon Bay shipbuilding rocks!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Brat That Ate Toledo

 

Yesterday, I descended to the bunker and brought up from one of the deep freezers what I suspect was the last package of venison brats from Door County Custom Meats. 

With a slightly amped-up spice it’s a dang good sausage. 

Tonight I grilled it with a reverse sear on the Weber; served straight-up on a standard bakery brat bun. 

I challenge anyone to eat more than one....

 

Door County Basics

In the 1800s  Belgian immigrants settled in Wisconsin and brought with them culinary traditions that persist to today.

The largest wave of Belgians arrived between 1853 and 1858.  They spoke a French-influenced patois and settled the wooded land extending from Green Bay to the southernmost extent of Door County.  By the 1880s there were more than 5000 people of Belgian descent who had settled in several communities in the area.  To this day it constitutes the largest concentration of Walloon Belgians anywhere in the world outside of Belgium.  It's a national treasure.  But I digress.

Getting back to the subject of culinary traditions I happened-upon this short video published only a few years ago.  I'm sharing it as it is about the tradition of hog butchering in both English and the original lingua franca. 

One of the elements of the past that is alive and well is a local favorite called Belgian Trippe.

Trippe (pronounced like trip) is a sausage similar to a bratwurst but with a not-so-secret ingredient.  The thrifty Belgian settlers extended their pork sausage with the inclusion of cabbage.  Further seasoned with onion, salt, pepper, thyme, nutmeg and ginger it is made locally by Marchant's.

It's pretty good stuff for breakfast, lunch or dinner and you won't find it anywhere outside of northeast Wisconsin.

Here's a newspaper clipping from 1963 with a recipe for 60+ pounds of the sausage for serving at a Kermis - or Belgian harvest festival....

click on image for a closer look

 

 

Underrated

I've never made these before and cannot recall eating them.  Although I have been told they are delicious.

Beef short ribs.

Inspired by one of my favorite YouTube channels I decided to make these in the forno for friends recently.  Moreover, I sourced grass-fed beef short ribs from a local farmer.

Bringing the forno online

Mise en place

Searing

Mirepoix

Making it come together - starting with a 375 F "falling-away" oven for a four hour braise

Served with seared brick oven asparagus and duck-fat-fried crashed potatoes  

A resounding success - score another dish from the brick oven.  Our guests declared these among the best they've dined-upon either at home or in a restaurant.  Beef short ribs are seriously underrated.  I'll make these again

And if you're looking for naturally-raised, locally-sourced meats you can learn more about Sunset Farms here.

Instructions below